Introduction: Hello from Stan and Roberta. On October 9,2011, we left Santa Rosa for three months of traveling. Our first stop was eight days in England; we will be in Israel until January 6, 2012, and then in Rome until January 13 ; then home. We wish we could write personally to each of you but we would then spend all the time writing and no time doing anything to write about—so it's a choice.
I've been to London several times but never in the country so this time I wanted to go to one of the areas that has footpaths—So we went to the Cotswold’s which has a 100 mile long path called “The Cotswold Way” which goes from Chipping Campden in the north to Bath. Since we had only a few days we walked 2 segments. The area became very prosperous between 1750 and the 1800s from the wool trade; after that there was more competition and the economy deteriorated. The good news is that the buildings and architecture remained intact because no one could afford to re-model or re-build so that area looks much as it did in the 1700s—buildings of yellow brick/stone from local quarries and thatched roofs quite common. We stayed at the Hotel Broadway in Broadway on the Green—it had lots of corridors carpeted in deep red, green and gold plaid and pictures of horses and dogs on the walls all very Tudor-like.
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The day of arrival we stopped at the (volunteer) tourist office in Broadway. Got some terrific information like valuable bus schedules, maps, and saw a poster advertising a concert that night in Chipping Campden featuring the New London Woodwind Quintet. This is a rare combination of instruments (horn, bassoon, flute, clarinet, oboe) to hear in concert anywhere and has a beautiful sound and I (Roberta) have played much of what they would perform.
There was a problem with logistics—we could take the 5:20 bus there but there was no return bus as late as the concert would end. Anyway we went to Chipping Campden, actually on the larger villages in the Cotswold’s with a few pubs, stores, a old sheep church as they are called, and found the site for the concert and got a phone number for a cab (we had no cell phone with us). Went to a pub for dinner (delicious) and conversation with people at other tables—who did have a cell. We called the cab company—they weren't interested in a 10pm fare; nor where the 3 other cab companies whose names we got from the pub staff.
Anyway when we got to the concert Stan held up a not so subtle sign asking for a ride back to Broadway and a very nice couple offered—they're working on a book about the interaction of artists, designers, and writers in the Cotswold in the 20th century. The concert was great—I've always wanted to hear the pieces I've played—mostly French modern composers—Milhaud, Ibert, Francaix—and Mozart. I actually have never played the Francaix because every time a quintet began to read it, we couldn't get past the first few measures—I could see why. The piece was commissioned by a professional quintet who told the composer to write something really difficult; and he did. The rhythms are wild, entrances occur at musically odd moments, and everything must be timed just right or it will fall apart—still quite musically exciting to listen to.
Wednesday we walked from Broadway to Chipping Campden by way of the Broadway Tower. The Tower is a “folly” built in 1797 by a rich man who wanted to impress his young wife. A folly is a building built as if it were an antiquity. I expected to see Rapunzel let down her golden hair from this 5 story cylinder built on the 2nd highest point in the whole area. It was used as an observation tower during World War II. It is now a private museum with info about all the poor farmers and also famous people that lived in this very isolated structure but with wonderful view of entire valley of 7 counties.
A few words about walking paths in England—the pathway is often not obvious. They mostly cut through private pastures where sheep or horses are grazing ,and occasionally crop field. There are some signs IE., a circle 3 in in diameter with an arrow on a fence pointing toward someone's pasture. There is a stile on the fence—that's a 2 foot horizontal plank at right angles to the fence—it's a way for humans to go over the fence while sheep stay put—you place your right foot on the plank and swing your left leg over the fence to the other side of the plank and then bring your right leg over the fence. Once in the pasture you may see a path or maybe not. If there is no path you look for a gate or stile. It's easy to get lost—which we did several times. The five miles turned into ten—but it was a beautiful day, cool but not chilly, white clouds and blue sky over sheep and green pasture. Had a good local brew before busing back to Broadway from Chipping Camden as as planned.
Dinner was great at The Swan. Food in England has really improved in the past twenty years—no more overcooked vegetables and tasteless everything else. I learned English for dessert is pudding which isn't a custard—it's cake or ice cream or tiramisu or any desert—that was really important for me to learn because I always like to “read” the dessert menu.
Dinner was followed by a hot bath and an ibuprofen and a sound sleep.
Thursday we walked to south to Stanton, about 5 miles, intending to bus back. However although we had a bus schedule the location of the bus stop was too subtle to find so the 5 miles turned into 10 as we had to walk back. The animals in this area seem so well cared for—dogs are clean and brushed (and well-behaved) –horses also. We passed several Steeplechase courses and many horses and riders on the paths and in the side streets. One adventure: We walked into a sheep pasture without an obvious path so we set out diagonally. A very cute sheep made eye contact so I petted him (her?). We continued walking; soon there were four sheep behind us, then 10, and finally about 40 running after us—it seems we were headed toward their trough and they thought we were bringing supper. Anyway the diagonal course was incorrect so we changed and eventually found the gate, leaving behind some very disappointed sheep. We went through to 2 very small villages, Buckland and Laverton, picture perfect with very nice old homes (maybe 15 to 25) and no services at all. At Stanton we had lunch an inn The Mount Inn a upscale pub with great views on the deck.
Friday, October 14, 2011, Back to London after quick bus ride to Moreton-in-Marsh, train ride to Paddington Station, tube to Victoria Station, and 3 block walk to our B&B on Ebury Street where Ian Fleming ( author of James Bond stories) lived as well as famous British actress Dame Edith Evans. The B&B wasn't as charming as the guide book said, but had great location, oh well. The half-price booth in Leichester Square still exists and furnished us with tickets to “Billy Elliot” and the
English National Opera “The Passenger”. This opera was written in 1968 by a Polish Jewish composer who escaped to Russia, but never performed there due to their political situation, it took place on shipboard where a German diplomat and his wife are traveling to a new post in Brazil in 1958. She is a former SS who served as a guard at Auschwitz and thinks she recognizes one of the former prisoners on the ship, who couldn't possibly escape where she sent the prisoner for punishment. Her husband had been unaware of her past; he now worries it will ruin his career; she doesn't understand why the prisoners didn't appreciate her many(?) kindnesses to them and is surprised that they hated her (and the other Nazis).
The music was beautiful, a bit like Shostakovitch, in English; there were English subtitles but the diction of the singers was so good we didn't need them. The set was remarkable. On the second story was a ship—all in white, the deck, the couple's cabin, and passengers and crew all dressed stylishly in white. On the first story were the barracks and train tracks of Auschwitz—very dark and colorless. The prisoners were from many countries and both Catholic and Jewish. The Nazi staff often complained of boredom.
“Billy Elliot” is a musical by Elton John. It juxtaposes the story of a boy who loves to dance with the story of coal miners on strike, including his father and brother, in a village during the Thatcher years.
Dancing and music are fabulous. It recently played in San Francisco.
We arrived in Jerusalem the same day as Shalit so no newspaper reported on our arrival. We rented a small apartment near the YMCA/King David. Location great—needed a lot of clean-up and stuff i.e., hangers, cork-screw, 2nd pair of sheets, coffee mugs. The kitchen has a hot plate with 2 burners, a microwave, and an electric water boiler (no oven or toaster) and one can be used at a time. There is a washer and drier—took a while to figure out the icons. The hot water heater has to be turned on 10 minutes before taking a shower—this is a way of conserving energy—I remember a similar system the first time I traveled to Germany in 1972. It has a bedroom, bathroom with shower, no tub, and combination living room, kitchen, and dinner table and chairs.
Heard Vice Prime Minister Moshe Y'Alon ( former chief of staff IDf) took about challenges. Main one is Iran, which will have to be denied nuks, and no chance for peace with outlook of Palestinians whose leaders including Abu Mazen have answered, “Never,” when asked if the Palestinians would recognize a Jewish state, Israel. Government will examine death penalty for terrorists who commit murder. He voted against deal for Shalit ( 23 to 3 in Cabinet). Tough realist!
Saw Russian circus last night-fun. Tonight lecture on Eichmann trail by a judge then prosecutor. Tuesday play by Woody Allen "G-d" and Wed. lecture on Spinoza. Walking tour of a neighborhood on Friday morning and Bus tour of East Jerusalem by religious group on Sunday. Well that doesn't include our 8 classes Mon-Thurs morning. Will list in next email. Hope all is well. And Saturday night 'Live at the Met in HD' shows Don Giovanni at the Jerusalem Cinematheque which spent about half million dollars to update equipment. You can see it in Santa Rosa at the same time—7 pm here, 10am in Santa Rosa. Next Sunday is concert with British Hazans
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